And I use the AGM mode on the 7002 (has a picture of a battery underneath a snowflake).Įven with this, every tech and mechanic I have ever discussed Ferrari OEM batteries with has either mumbled under their breath or outright stated that the batteries Ferrari uses are, well, lets just say less than the best. I would note, I find out the battery type in these cars- for example my 2017 F12 came with an AGM battery even though I did not ask for HELE. So I'm sticking with what has worked for me- the 7002. I went out and got a 7002 and it recharged the battery right then and there and ever since I upgraded to their 7002, I haven't have a problem at all. I discovered a dead tender connected to a mostly dead battery. After my experience many years ago with a dead 599 after 8 weeks of sitting connected to the OEM tender, I discovered the Ferrari supplied cTek as was too weak to deliver the proper amperage to the car for its onboard systems and the tender basically fought a losing battle.
#Will battery buddy extend life of battery 2015 upgrade
while new battery construction can be appealing, how compatible is a new type of battery with what is in the carīrian, as a matter of course I upgrade all my cars to cTek 7002 when I take delivery. voltage regulator settings may not be compatible with newer batteries etc. there are many devices that specify to use a specific type battery, often seen with dry cell battery replacement recomedations as the output voltage changes higher as newer dry cell batteries come available ( the AA, C, D etc) there is a lot going on more than 12volts shown on a car battery label. where as other types of battery construction ( gel, AGM ) require higher voltages to charge and their output voltage is greater than 12 volts it is possible that clocks in the cars were built using std wet cell specs and / or the car batteries have been upgraded to a better type of battery construction not matching the clock's operating range spec. I think this 7002 tender has done a nice job for me.Ĭlick to expand.different types of batteries have different charge / acceptance rates which require a matching charger setting for the battery charged a standard wet cell is fully charge when it shows 12.5 volts while charging at 13+ volts. FWIW, I've read the stock batteries are just OK. I've gotten 6-7 years on several batteries, and I think I would have gotten more but I change batteries every 6 years or so as a precaution. Probably not a bad idea to ask the service people at your dealer or your mechanic if you have one.įYI, I've been using this tender for 8 years on several Ferraris. I would imagine the supplied tender would be correct for the type of battery you have but I wonder if this could be the root of your problem also. If you do have an AGM battery make sure if you use the tender's AGM mode (its slightly higher voltage). You can also wire to the battery directly if you like.ĭoes your car have the HELE (start/stop) system? Do you know if your car has an AGM battery? If you are not sure I think the dealer can tell you. I just didn't want to alter the tender that came with the car. You could also have any competent electrician remove the included tender connector and modify the cTek cable. I bought a few and the one I've used so far has worked flawlessly. This fellow has made adapters for the Ferrari connector. The 7002 will recharge your battery and I am not sure exactly how it does this but they say it will also "condition" the battery to help extend its life. My preference is the cTek 7002- it might be differently labeled in your market but here is a link for the US: Thus, with any Ferrari I have, I just leave the included tender alone and get something that can supply more charge.
I've found the newer included tenders are better than the older ones- but they won't really add much charge to the battery- they will just keep the battery at the same level its at when you plug the tender in. And then home and never really drive for a sustained period of time, what's happening is you are slowly lowering the charge in the battery.
Then come back, another 10 minutes, stop, etc. If you are taking many shorter drives- something like 10 minutes, stop. I think you shouldn't have to change the battery so often.Īre your daily drives shorter than 30 minutes from when you start to when you end? Every time you crank the motor, it pulls some juice out of the battery and it takes some time before you replace it from driving.